Preface

PREFACE The present GUIDE TO LONDON AND ITS ENVIRONS, now appearing in its third edition, aims at presenting a convenient, brief, and clear description of the chief points of interest in one of the great cities of the world (not forgetting its innumerable literary and historical associations), prefaced by a summary of practical information likely to be useful to the visitor, whether from other parts of the kingdom, from overseas, or from elsewhere abroad. It is hoped, too, that it may be found to be a convenient handbook for the Londoner, not only reminding him of what lies at his door, but for practical purposes obviating the consultation of many books of reference. It lays no claim to be an exhaustive description of London, for which many volumes would be required. No one is better aware than the Editor and his Staff of the difficulty of avoiding errors, whether of omission or of commission, and suggestions for the correction or improvement of the Guide will be most cordially welcomed. Those already received are here gratefully acknowledged. The present edition has been thoroughly revised and brought up to date; its scope has been extended by the inclusion of descriptions of Windsor and St. Albans; a compact Atlas of London in 36 pages has been substituted for the less convenient long strip maps of the previous editions; and four new plans have been added. That the Blue Guide now ranks as the most authoritative guide to London is due largely to the cordial and generous assistance which the Editor has received from every quarter; from the authorities in Government Offices, from the directors of public and private institutions, from the clergy of London, from secretaries of societies; from the officials of railway and other companies, and from innumerable scholars and friends. Especial thanks are due to those whose names are attached to the introductory articles; to Mr. C. H. Collins Baker, of the National Gallery; to Mr. Arundel Esdaile, of the British Museum; to Major ffoulkes, of the War Museum; to Mr. S. J. Camp, of the Wallace Collection; to Mr. A. J. B. Wace, of the Victoria and Albert Museum; to Mr. Atkinson, of the Record Office; to Mr. Maurice Brockwell; to Mr. Ernest Law; and, for expert assistance in many directions, to Dr. J. F. Muirhead. Permission to use the maps of Epping Forest has been generously granted by Mr. Edward North Buxton and Messrs. Edward Stanford Ltd. The MAPS AND PLANS (with the above exception) have been specially drawn for the Guide, and every care has been lavished on them to adapt them to the needs of the traveller. With the aid of the group of maps in the Appendix neither the stranger to London nor the Londoner should have any difficulty in locating and finding his way to any point in the metropolis. Advertisements of every kind are rigorously excluded from this and every other volume of the Blue Guides Series. 4a Bloomsbury Square, W.C. 1. POPULATIONS are given according to the census of 1921. TABLE OF CONTENTS PREFACE....... V HISTORY AND ADMINISTRATION of LONDON, by Charles Welch, F.S.A...... xiii Sovereigns of England, xxviii. BRITISH ART, by D. S. MacColl, M.A., LL.D... xxvii LONDON ARCHITECTURE, by Professor W. R. Lethaby. xlii LITERARY WALKS IN LONDON, by James F. Muirhead, M.A., L.H.D...... lix BOOKS ABOUT LONDON..... lxvii PRACTICAL INFORMATION I. ON THE WAY TO LONDON...1 Routes between England and North America, 1. Routes between London and the Continent, 2. - Air Services, 3. - Custom House, 4. - Passports, 4. -Railways, 4. - Railway Termini, 5. - Arrival in London, 6, - Steamship Offices, 7. II. GENERAL HINTS....7 Season, 7. - Money and Expenses, 7. - Police, 8. - Traffic, 9. - Health, 8. -Some English Usages, 10. - Glossary 11. III. HOTELS AND BOARDING HOUSES.. 12 Private Apartments, 18. IV. RESTAURANTS. LUNCHEON ROOMS. TEA ROOMS 19 V. CONVEYANCES.....25 Cabs, 25. -Private Carriages and Motor Cars, 25. - Omnibuses, 26. - Tramways, 26.-Coaches, 27.- Underground Railways, 27. - Suburban Railways, 28. - River Steamers, 29. VI. POSTAL AND OTHER SERVICES...29 Post Office, 29. - Telegrams, 31. - Telephones, 32. - Parcels Agents, 32.-Goods Agents, 32. - Tourist Offices, 32.- District Messenger Co., 33.- Commissionaires, 33. - Guides, 33. VII. AMUSEMENTS.....33 Theatres, 33. - Music Halls, 36. - Cinemas, 37. - Other Shows and Entertainments, 37.-Art Collections, 38.-Art Exhibitions, 38.- Concerts, 39.- Church Music, 40.-Sports and Games, 40. VIII. USEFUL ADDRESSES....45 Directories and Books of Reference, 45. - Embassies, Legations, and Consulates, 45. - Representatives of British Dominions, 47.-Banks, 48. - Clubs, 48.- Libraries, 50. - Bookshops, 51. - Newspapers, 52. -Shops, 53. - Baths, 56. IX. CHURCH SERVICES....56 X. PLAN AND TIME-TABLE OF VISIT.. 59 XI. CALENDAR OF EVENTS....61 LONDON I. THE WEST END AND NORTH-WEST ROUTE PAGE 1. CHARING CROSS AND TRAFALGAR SQUARE.. 65 St. Martin's in the Fields, 67.-Charing Cross Road, 68. -St. Martin's Lane, 68. 2. WHITEHALL......69 Admiralty, 70. - Horse Guards, 71. - War Office, 71.- Banqueting Hall, 71. - United Service Museum. 72.-Treasury, 74. -Cenotaph, 74.-Downing St., 74. 3. WESTMINSTER.....75 St. Margaret's, 76. -Dean's Yard, 79. - Victoria Street, 80. - Westminster Cathedral, 81. 4. THE HOUSES OF PARLIAMENT...84 Westminster Hall, 90. 5. WESTMINSTER ABBEY....92 6. ST. JAMES'S PARK..... 112 The Mall, 113. - Queen Victoria Memorial, 114.- Green Park, 114. 7. BUCKINGHAM PALACE. ST. JAMES'S PALACE. MARLBOROUGH HOUSE....115 8. PALL MALL AND ST. JAMES'S... 118 Haymarket, 119. - Waterloo Place, 120.-St. James's Square, 121. - Bridgewater House, 122. 9. PICCADILLY......126 Piccadilly Circus, 126. - Burlington House, 127. - Bond Street, 130. - Albemarle Street, 130. - Apsley House, 132. 10. PARK LANE AND MAYFAIR.... 133 Curzon Street, 135. - Berkeley Square, 136. - Grosvenor Square, 137. 11. HYDE PARK AND KENSINGTON GARDENS.. 137 Kensington Palace, 142. - Bayswater Road, 143. - Chapel of the Ascension, 143. 12. KNIGHTSBRIDGE AND KENSINGTON... 143 Belgravia, 144. - Brompton Oratory, 145. - Albert Hall, 147. - Imperial College of Science, 148. - Imperial Institute, 148. - University of London, 149.- Campden Hill, 151. - Holland House, 152. 13. CHELSEA...... 153 Cheyne Walk, 156. - Carlyle's House, 157. 14. OXFORD STREET..... 161 Marble Arch, 161. - Cavendish Square, 163. - Oxford Circus, 164. - High Holborn, 165. 15. REGENT STREET AND SOHO... 166 Hanover Square, 167.-Leicester Square, 169.- Shaftesbury Avenue, 169. -Soho Square, 171. 16. EDGWARE ROAD. PADDINGTON. ST. JOHN'S WOOD 171 Harrow Road, 172. - Kensal Green Cemetery, 172.- Cricklewood, 173. - Lord's Cricket Ground, 174. 17. MARYLEBONE. REGENT'S PARK. ZOOLOGICAL GARDENS... 175 Baker Street, 175. - Bedford College, 177. - Royal Botanic Gardens, 177. - Primrose Hill, 181. 18. BLOOMSBURY AND DISTRICTS TO THE NORTH. 181 Tottenham Court Road, 182. - Hampstead Road, 182. - Camden Town, 183. - Dickens House, 188. - Gray's Inn Road, 188. - Euston Road, 189.- King's Cross, 190. II. THE CITY, EAST END, AND NORTH-EAST 19. FROM CHARING CROSS TO ST. PAUL'S CATHEDRAL 192 The Strand, 192. - Adelphi, 194. - Savoy Chapel, 195.-Somerset House, 196.-St. Mary le Strand, 197. - St. Clement Danes, 198. - Royal Courts of Justice, 199.-Temple Bar, 200. - Fleet Street, 200. - Fetter Lane, 202. - St. Bride's, 203. - Farringdon Street, 204. - Ludgate Hill, 205. 20. COVENT GARDEN. KINGSWAY. LINCOLN'S INN FIELDS..205 St. Paul's Church, 206. - Bow Street, 207. - Aldwych, 209.- Kingsway, 209.-Soane Museum, 211. - Royal College of Surgeons, 213. 21. THE INNS OF COURT AND LEGAL LONDON. 215 The Temple, 216. - Lincoln's Inn, 219. - Gray's Inn, 220. - Chancery Lane, 221. 22. ALONG HOLBORN TO ST. PAUL'S CATHEDRAL. 223 Staple Inn, 223. - Hatton Garden, 224. - Ely Chapel, 225. - St. Sepulchre's, 226. - Christ Church, 227. - General Post Office, 228. - Paternoster Row, 229. 23. SMITHFIELD AND CLERKENWELL... 230 St. Bartholomew's Hospital, 231. - St. Bartholomew's Church, 232. - Aldersgate Street, 233. - Charterhouse, 234. 24. THE THAMES EMBANKMENT BETWEEN WESTMINSTER AND ST. PAUL'S 238 Westminster Bridge, 238. - Cleopatra's Needle, 240. - Waterloo Bridge, 240. - Sion College, 241.- Bridewell, 242. 25. ST. PAUL'S CATHEDRAL.... 243 26. FROM ST. PAUL'S CATHEDRAL TO THE BANK OF ENGLAND..... 252 Cheapside, 252. - Goldsmiths' Hall, 252. - Bow Church, 253. - Guildhall, 256. - St. Giles Cripplegate, 261. 27. FROM BLACKFRIARS BRIDGE TO THE BANK OF ENGLAND...262 Blackfriars Bridge, 262. - Queen Victoria Street, 263. - Bible Society, 264. - College of Arms, 264.- Cannon Street, 266. 28. THE BANK OF ENGLAND. THE ROYAL EXCHANGE. THE MANSION HOUSE.... 268 Lloyd's, 270. - Stock Exchange, 272. 29. FROM THE BANK TO THE ANGEL... 274 Moorgate, 274. -City Road, 275. - Bunhill Fields, 275. - Wesley's Chapel. 276. - Islington, 276. - Canonbury Tower, 276. 30. THE CITY TO THE EAST OF THE BANK.. 277 A. From the Bank to London Bridge.. 277 King William Street, 277. - St. Mary Woolnoth, 277. - Monument, 278. - Fishmongers' Hall, 279. B. From the Bank to Aldgate via Lombard Street 279 Bankers' Clearing House, 279. - Fenchurch Street, 280. - St. Olave's, 280. - Lloyd's Register, 281. C. From the Bank to Aldgate via Cornhill. 281 Leadenhall Street, 282. - Houndsditch, 284. - Minories, 284. D. Bishopsgate and the north Districts.. 285 Shoreditch, 286. - Spitalfields, 287. - Hoxton, 287.- Stoke Newington, 288. - Clapton, 288. 31. WHITECHAPEL AND BETHNAL GREEN.. 288 Mile End Road, 289. - People's Palace, 290.- Victoria Park, 291. - Hackney, 291. 32. FROM BLACKFRIARS BRIDGE TO THE TOWER VIA THAMES STREET.... 291 Upper Thames Street, 291. - Southwark Bridge, 292. - London Bridge, 292. - Lower Thames Street, 293. - Billingsgate, 293. - Custom House, 294. 33. THE TOWER AND TOWER HILL... 295 Allballows Barking, 295. -Trinity House, 304.- Royal Mint, 305. - Tower Bridge, 305. 34. THE EAST END AND THE DOCKS... 306 Commercial Road East, 306. - Stepney Church, 307.- Rotherhithe Tunnel, 307. - Blackwall Tunnel, 308. - Woolwich Tunnel. 312. III. THE SURREY SIDE 35. SOUTHWARK...... 313 St. Saviour's, 316. -Guy's Hospital, 318. - Elephant and Castle, 320. -Camberwell, 321. - Bermondsey, 321. - Rotherhithe, 321. 36. LAMBETH AND BATTERSEA.... 322 London County Hall, 322. - St. Thomas's Hospital, 323. -Lambeth Palace, 323. -Bethlem Hospital, 325. - Waterloo Road, 326. - Wandsworth, 328. - Kennington, 328. - Streatham, 329. - Croydon, 329. - Clapham, 329. IV. THE GREAT PUBLIC COLLECTIONS 37. THE BRITISH MUSEUM....331 38. THE LONDON MUSEUM.... 360 39. THE NATIONAL GALLERY....365 40. THE NATIONAL PORTRAIT GALLERY.. 385 41. THE NATURAL HISTORY MUSEUM... 391 42. THE SCIENCE MUSEUM.... 396 43. THE TATE GALLERY.... 399 44. THE VICTORIA AND ALBERT MUSEUM.. 407 The India Museum, 427. 45. THE WALLACE COLLECTION.... 430 46. THE IMPERIAL WAR MUSEUM...439 V. THE NEARER ENVIRONS 47. HAMMERSMITH, CHISWICK, AND FULHAM.. 443 North End Road, 443. - Hogarth's House, 445. - Fulham Road, 445. - Fulham Palace, 446. 48. HAMPSTEAD AND HIGHGATE... 446 Finchley Road, 446. - Old Hampstead, 447. - Keats Memorial House, 449.-Kenwood Park, 451.- Cromwell House, 452. - Waterlow Park, 452. - Alexandra Palace, 454. 49. GREENWICH AND WOOLWICH... 454 Deptford, 455. - Blackheath, 458. 50. DULWICH AND THE CRYSTAL PALACE.. 459 Horniman Museum, 464. VI. THE FARTHER ENVIRONS 51. THE THAMES FROM WESTMINSTER TO HAMPTON COURT... 467 52. HAMPTON COURT.....470 I. By Railway..... 470 Wimbledon, 470.- Kingston, 471. II. By Tramway.....471 Brentford, 472.-Hampton, 472.-Bushy Park. 480. 53. RICHMOND AND KEW....481 By Railway from Waterloo to Richmond,. 481 Putney, 481. - Barnes, 481. - Mortlake, 482. - From Richmond to Hampton Court, 486. - Petersham, 486. -Twickenham, 487. - Teddington, 487. From Richmond to Kew.... 487 54. FROM LONDON TO TILBURY AND GRAVESEND. THE THAMES FROM WESTMINSTER TO TILBURY 490 A. By Railway..... 490 I. Via Woolwich and Dartford, 490.- II. Via Eltham and Dartford, 492. - III. Via the North Bank of the Thames, 493. B. By River.....494 55. EPPING FOREST. WALTHAM ABBEY.. 496 From Liverpool Street to Chingford, 496. - From Liverpool Street to Loughton, 497. - Epping, 498. - From Liverpool Street to Waltham Cross, 499. 56. HARROW. JORDANS. CHALFONT ST. GILES. STOKE POGES...501 A. From London to Harrow and Chalfont, 501. - - Rickmansworth, 502. - Chenies, 502. B. From London to Jordans and Chalfont St. Giles, 503. - Beaconsfield, 503. C. From London to Stoke Poges and Burnham Beeches, 504. -Slough, 505. 57. FROM LONDON TO WINDSOR... 506 A. & B. By Railway, 506. C. By Steamer from Kingston, 507. 58. FROM LONDON TO ST. ALBANS'... 517 A.-C. By Railway via Hendon and Mill Hill, via Watford, or via Hatfield, 517, 518.-D. Motor Route 519. INDEX...525 TABLE OF THE SIGHTS OF LONDON At the End of the Book APPENDIX PAGE CAB-TARIFF.......1 OMNIBUSES AND TRAMWAYS.... 1 Suburban Districts served by Omnibuses and Tramways, 1.-Omnibus Routes 3.-Tramway Routes, 8. UNDERGROUND RAILWAYS....11 SUBURBAN ELECTRIC RAILWAYS...17 INDEX TO THE ATLAS OF LONDON...20 MAPS AND PLANS BRITISH MUSEUM, GROUND FLOOR... 344 ,, ' FIRST FLOOR HAMPTON COURT PALACE.... 480 HOUSES OF PARLIAMENT...90 IMPERIAL INSTITUTE..... 149 MUSEUMS AT SOUTH KENSINGTON.. 150 NATIONAL GALLERY..... 384 NATIONAL PORTRAIT GALLERY, SECOND FLOOR. 387 FIRST FLOOR.. 389 GROUND FLOOR. 390 NATURAL HISTORY MUSEUM.... 394 PORT OF LONDON.... 311 ST. PAUL'S CATHEDRAL.. 250 TATE GALLERY...... 401 TOWER OF LONDON.... 304 VICTORIA AND ALBERT MUSEUM, GROUND FLOOR. 416 ' ' FIRST FLOOR. 426 WALLACE COLLECTION, GROUND FLOOR.. 432 FIRST FLOOR...436 WESTMINSTER ABBEY.....110 ZOOLOGICAL GARDENS..180 ENVIRONS OF LONDON. Before the title-page. EPPING FOREST, SOUTH HALF.... 498 NORTH HALF....500 KEW GARDENS..... 490 ST. ALBANS CATHEDRAL....523 RICHMOND DISTRICT..... 486 WINDSOR CASTLE..... 514. APPENDIX ATLAS OF LONDON IN FOUR COLOURS. SECTION PLANS- I. Westminster and Piccadilly. II. Regent Street, Oxford Street, and Marylebone. III. Strand, Holborn, and Bloomsbury. IV. The City. TUBE AND TRAMWAY MAP.