Gardenvisit.com The Garden Guide

Book: Gardening tours by J.C. Loudon 1831-1842
Chapter: Somersetshire, Devonshire and Cornwall in 1842

Exeter to Torquay

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Sept. 8. - From Exeter, by Luscombe, Dawlish, Teignmouth, and Babbicombe, to Torquay. We set out in an open carriage with elevated seats, so as to see over the high fences, which every where border the roads and lanes. The day, like almost every other while we were in Devonshire, was fine; and the country and the sea rich, varied, and altogether delightful; all the corn carried; the turnip fields covered by luxuriant leaves; the rank pastures well stocked with red oxen and sheep; and the apple trees, which accompany every house and cottage, laden with fruit. We passed through Kenton, and other villages or groups of cottages, and saw some churches with high square towers, venerable and grand; and many cottages with cob walls, and thatched roofs. Rather too many of these and of larger dwellings had the walls whitewashed; which, though good in a moral point of view, as conveying the idea of care and cleanliness, is yet bad with reference to picturesque effect; because white spots do not harmonise with the surrounding colours, but remain for ever the same glaring objects, except during twilight and night. "In any scene where harmony prevails," says Sir Uvedale Price, "the least discordancy in colour disturbs the eye; but, if we suppose a single object of a glaring white to be introduced, the whole attention, in spite of all our efforts to the contrary, will be drawn to that one point; if many such objects be scattered about, the eye will be distracted among them. Again, to consider it in another view, when the sun breaks out in gleams, there is something that delights and surprises in seeing an object, before only visible, lighted up in splendour, and then gradually sinking into shade; but a whitened object is already lighted up; it remains so when every thing else has retired into obscurity; it still forces itself into notice, still impudently stares you in the face. An object of a sober tint, unexpectedly gilded by the sun, is like a serious countenance suddenly lighted up by a smile; a whitened object like the eternal grin of a fool." The views of the sea, and of the scenery all along the coast, are varied and beautiful; though the houses at Teignmouth and other watering places convey more the idea of the temporary residences of visitors and invalids, than of permanent abodes. One of the handsomest newly built villas which we saw was one in the Elizabethan style by Mr. Hayward of Exeter: the situation is elevated, and the terraced gardens in front very appropriate; the entrance is from behind, as it always ought to be in such cases.