London Garden History : A Chronological Tour [See note on transport and see illustrations]
LONDON'S RIVER GARDEN ROUTE

LONDON'S RIVER GARDEN ROUTE

The Victorians boasted that 'London is the capital of the world'. It wasn't. But it could claim, then and now, to be a garden capital (comparable to New York for finance or Paris for fashion). As the S. E. Rasmussen, a Dane, pointed out  in London: the Unique City, what makes the capital's urban form unique is the exceptional proportion of houses with private gardens. The 'continental habit' of living in flats never caught on in the UK. In part this was because the English Channel and the 'wooden walls' (the navy) made living outside walled cities safe centuries before this was the case elsewhere in Europe. But more important than this, the English people have an ancient passion for gardens which, to everyone's amazement, grows more intense each year. But most of these gardens are private. London has has remarkably few good public gardens and parks to visit. This note was written for visitors who come to London,  are willing to seek them out and would enjoy a historical tour. Since transport is part of the problem, Gardenvisit.com has proposed a 'River Garden Route' comprising 18 gardens. Except for the 3 gardens south west of the London, they are located along the river and much of the river. The travel can be done by bike, boat and train.

Transport in London

Finding one's way round a big city can be daunting. The gardens recommended on this page have been chosen to ease the transport problem - it is much better if you arrive in London with an idea of what to see and how to travel.

Young and energetic travellers can travel by bike and train. For those starting in Central London, there is a cycle hire shop at  on the South Bank (London Bicycle Tour Company, Gabriels Wharf, 0207 8928 6838). You can take bikes on London trains without charge except (1) on underground lines where the bike would have to be taken on an escalator (otherwise its OK) (2) at busy commuter times, when the trains are full.

Less-young and less-energetic travellers should do most of the travel by train (Underground or Main Line). For the short trips from stations to gardens they can use bus or taxi. By far the best way to find a bus from one point to another is to ask someone standing at a bus stop -they tend to be very sympathetic and helpful. The simplest way to get information on London trains, routes and times, is to ring the National Rail Enquiries line 08457 484950. Or see www.thetrainline.com.

River boats can be used to make most of the river trips. They are very enjoyable, but neither cheap nor fast . See the River Thames Guide . Between Richmond and Kingston one gets a wonderful view of the private gardens beside the river, and wishes one had a few spare millions to buy a house here. The houses are not so much opulent as intensely desirable. Where else can one find the same relaxed, calm beauty on the fringe of a World City? It makes being a millionaire seem almost attractive.

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