The Cathedral is one of the earliest Norman churches in England, though it has additions representing every subsequent period of architecture. In interior length (520+ feet) it is surpassed by Winchester Cathedral (526 feet), but its nave is the longest Gothic nave in existence (275+ feet). The massive Norman tower (149 feet), with its striking arcade is (like the other Norman portions) largely constructed of Roman bricks and tiles. The west facade and the transeptal facades are for the most part modern. The church is open daily from 10 to 4, 5 or 6. Services on week-days at 10 (11 on Wednesday & Friday) and 5 (4.15 in winter; Saturday always 4, Wednesday 8.15), on Sunday at 8, 11, and 6.30.
HISTORY. The central part of the cathedral is substantially the church built on the site of Offa's church in 1077-88 by Paul of Caen, the first Norman abbot, and dedicated in 1116. This seems to have ended, just east of the present transepts, in seven apses, and the present east end of the cathedral dates from the 13th (Presbytery, etc., and 14th century (Lady Chapel). The west front, together with the west bays of the nave, was rebuilt in the early 13th century. After the Dissolution the church became parochial. A restoration was begun under Sir Gilbert Scott in 1856, and subsequently Sir Edmund Beckett (afterwards Lord Grimthorpe) completed the work at his own expense and according to his own designs. Though much of the new work is in poor taste, and though some fine old work was destroyed, Lord Grimthorpe has the credit of having put the building into a thorough state of repair. In 1877 the church became the cathedral of a new diocese. See the 'History of the Abbey of St. Albans,' by L. F Rushbrook-Williams (1917).
Interior. The interior of the west Porch (restored) is a beautiful example of early Gothic. The plain but graceful west end of the NAVE is Early English, abruptly joining the severe early Norman work on the north side and continued on the south side by five Decorated bays erected circa 1325. The roof and the stone pulpit (by Lord Grimthorpe) are modern. On the west and south sides of the Norman piers are considerable remains of Wall Paintings. The dark Crucifixion, on the westernmost pier, is probably by Walter of Colchester (circa 1220), called by Matthew Paris an incomparable painter. On the second pillar on the north side is an inscription to 'Sir John Mandeville,' the imaginary traveller, who was supposed to have been born at St. Albans. A stone Rood Screen (circa 1350) separates the nave from the Norman ritual CHOIR, which occupies the three east bays of the structural nave as well as the space beneath the tower, and is continued east by the Presbytery or Sanctuary. Most of the presbytery and of the retro-choir was rebuilt in the transition style from Early English to Decorated by Abbot John de Hertford (1235-60). On the north side of the presbytery is the late Perpendicular chantry of Abbot Thomas Ramryge (died 1520), on the south side the chantry of Abbot John de Whethamstead (died 1465), now containing the large Brass of Abbot Thomas de la Mare (died 1396; best seen from the south choir-aisle). The unfinished altarpiece (The Resurrection) is by Alfred Gilbert. The stone Altar Screen (recently restored) was erected by Abbot William de Wallingford (1476-84). The TRANSEPTS are the best preserved portions of the Norman church. The arches on the east side led into the original apsidal chapels. In the north transept a cross on the west wall is supposed to indicate the exact site of St. Alban's martyrdom. On the opposite wall is a 15th century fresco (Incredulity of St. Thomas). In the south transept the blind triforium on the east wall has arches separated by small circular shafts, fitted with Norman capitals and Norman bases, but usually accepted as relics of Offa's Saxon church. The south wall of this transept was rebuilt by Lord Grimthorpe, who incorporated in it some late Norman arcading and the doorway of the former slype. The Elizabethan dole-cupboards here should not be overlooked.
Immediately east of the presbytery is ST. ALBAN'S CHAPEL, in the middle of which is the elaborately carved marble base of St. Alban's Shrine, pieced together from more than 2000 fragments in 1872. The so-called Watching Loft, on the north side, in oak (circa 1400) with carvings of the Months on the back, consists of a relic cupboard and (probably) an ordinary chantry. On the south side is the Monument of Humphrey, Duke of Gloucester (died 1447), with a lofty canopy and statuettes of English kings. Beyond the retro-choir is the LADY CHAPEL, built by Abbot Hugh de Eversden (1308-26), freely restored; from the Reformation until 1870 it was used by the grammar-school. In the north Presbytery aisle are fragments of the Shrine of St. Amphibalus.
