Detestable Inns in Italy

‘“It is normal,” he said, “to be given a high wooden platform built with rough planks. The straw mattress rustles like the shavings in a coffin. The bolster droops down on both sides, like a sausage. The sheets are damp and so dirty they excite horror. The bed is so large you must sometimes share it with three other men and a myriad of insects.”’ This is a quote from The Claudians: gardens, landscapes, reason and faith: John Claudius Loudon and Claudius Buchanan, Tom Turner (Kindle, 2024). 

The Harsh Realities of 19th Century Italian Inns: A Traveller’s Perspective

Other travellers joined in the criticism of inns in Italy. Henry Matthews wrote about them in his 1787 book Diary of an Invalid, Travelling in Search of Health. Matthews describes inns in Italy as ‘miserable hovels...dirty, smoky, and inconvenient.’ He complains about poor food, unhygienic conditions, and exorbitant prices. 

Arthur Young wrote about ins in his 1792 work Travels in France and Italy, Young described inns in Naples as ‘filthy and uncomfortable,’ with ‘straw beds’ and ‘no other furniture than a few chairs.’ He also notes the presence of lice and other pests. 

Traveller Critiques of Italian Inns

The criticisms leveled against Italian inns reflect the changing expectations of travelers and the evolving standards of hospitality. As tourism developed and travelers became more accustomed to comfortable accommodations, the shortcomings of traditional inns became increasingly apparent. The experiences of Loudon, Matthews, Young, and Stendhal serve as a reminder of the challenges faced by travelers in the past and the significant improvements that have occurred in the hospitality industry since then. Today, visitors to Italy can enjoy a wide range of comfortable and welcoming accommodations, ensuring a more enjoyable and memorable travel experience.